Is This the Future of New York Fashion?

By almost any measure, Khaite, the women’s wear label founded in 2016 by Catherine Holstein, is one of the great recent success stories of American fashion — if not the great success story.

The brand has been in existence for less than a decade, but Ms. Holstein has already been twice named designer of the year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, in 2022 and 2023. She has a dream of a Zen brutalist store in SoHo, not far from Prada and Balenciaga. Last year she took on investment from Stripes, the private equity firm that also backs the film production company A24 and On Running, with the aim of opening further shops.

And judging by her show on Saturday, held in an enormous black box at Chelsea Piers, with a mirrored river of a black runway lit only by the sort of follow spot Tom Ford made famous during his Gucci and YSL years, she has ambition to spare.

What she doesn’t seem to have is originality.

In moving from the “cool girl” fashion for which she was originally known to more capital-F Fashion, she seems to have gotten lost in the thicket of other people’s ideas, borrowing a bit from here, a bit from there. It’s as if she feels that to compete with big brands, she has to go through the same motions as those brands. As a result, she is trapped in a buffer zone between the plush angst of the recently popular quiet luxury movement and the dominatrix leathers most associated with Saint Laurent (especially when paired with black shades and red lips).

Or so it seemed from the current collection, with those leathers, in the form of long coats, tightly belted at the waist, with battering-ram shoulders. Also, jackets with more big, curving shoulders but cropped like boleros and paired with boxy leather skirts. Also, organza tops and skirts molded around the torso and legs like squirts of whipped cream or boa constrictors, ghost-girl white nightie dresses and some tango evening scarf print silks, tucked into cigarette pants and cinched with a cummerbund. The silhouette was major on the top, awkward on the bottom.